How to Cut Bamboo Roman Shades for a Perfect Fit: A DIY Guide

Do you adore the crisp, clean look of white trim paired with the natural elegance of bamboo roman shades? Many homeowners find it a challenge to source shades that perfectly match their window dimensions. Custom-made bamboo roman shades can be a significant investment, but readily available, store-bought options offer a more budget-friendly solution for window treatments. The hurdle, however, lies in adapting these standard-sized shades to fit unconventional window sizes. While the seemingly obvious solution is to simply cut them, you’ll likely encounter a chorus of reasons why this is supposedly impossible. But I’m here to tell you that with the right approach, it is absolutely achievable to cut store-bought bamboo roman shades and achieve a flawless fit for your windows. Keep reading to discover exactly how!

The Challenge of Non-Standard Window Sizes

My own window, spanning 63 inches in width, presented a classic example of this dilemma. The typical dimensions of shades sold in major retail stores often jump from 48 inches to 72 inches, leaving cutting as the only viable alternative. I discovered suitable bamboo roman shades at JCP Home, ordered the 72-inch version, and gathered the necessary tools. Let’s explore the materials you’ll need to successfully cut your own bamboo shade to the perfect size.

Materials You Will Need

• Store-bought Bamboo Roman Shade: Choose a shade that is larger than your window width.
• Large Chop Saw with at least a 12-inch blade: Essential for making clean, straight cuts through the rolled shade. Smaller saws may not have sufficient cutting capacity.
• Painter’s Tape: Crucial for preventing fraying and ensuring a clean edge during the cutting process.
• Tailor’s Chalk: Used for marking precise cutting lines on the bamboo shade. Any removable marking device will work.
• Large Ruler or Measuring Tape: Necessary for accurate measurements and ensuring straight lines.
• 3/8 inch Spade Bit: Used to create new mounting holes after the shade has been cut.
• Drill: To be used with the spade bit for drilling new mounting holes.

Step 1: Measure and Determine Shade Size

Begin by accurately measuring the width of your window opening. Select a bamboo shade that is slightly wider than your measurement; typically, the next standard size up will work. Keep in mind that the internal cords and hardware of a bamboo shade usually allow for approximately 8-12 inches of width reduction. In my case, an inside mount wouldn’t work. To get the right fit, I’d have to remove 17 inches. So, I chose to top mount the shades (installing them above and outside the trim) and removing 9 inches overall.

Step 2: Determine Cut Lines

Once you know the total amount of width that needs to be removed, decide how much to cut from each side of the shade. The placement of the internal shade hardware is often asymmetrical, so take this into account. In my project, I removed 3.5 inches from the right side and 5.5 inches from the left. It’s important to leave at least a half-inch of excess material beyond the outermost hardware component. The marked line in the images above represents my intended cut line. You may need to cut past the routed-out section used to mount the shade, but this is easily remedied later.

Step 3: Prepare the Shade

Fully extend the shade and lay it on a flat surface with the backside facing up.

Step 4: Measure and Mark Cut Lines on Backside

On the back of the shade, carefully measure the distance you need to cut off from each side. For example, in the left photo above, you can see the side where I removed 5.5 inches. Use tailor’s chalk (or any removable marking tool) to make several marks along the entire length of the shade. Use a straightedge to connect these marks and create a straight, continuous line.

Next, apply painter’s tape along the marked line. Position the tape on the section of the shade that will *not* be cut off. This tape acts as a crucial barrier, preventing the bamboo from splintering or fraying during the cut. The tape will ensure that the newly cut edge of the shade remains clean and intact.

Step 5: Tape the Wood Mounting Strip and Flap

Extend the painter’s tape over the wood mounting strip and onto any overlapping flap material. Repeat this process for both sides of the shade’s backside.

Step 6: Repeat on the Front Side

Flip the shade over to the front side and repeat steps 4 and 5. Do not omit this step! While you only require tape on one side to guide your cut, applying tape to both sides is vital to minimize fraying and ensure a clean cut. Again, confirm that the tape is positioned on the inner side of the cut line, safeguarding the portion of the shade you intend to keep.

Step 7: Tightly Roll the Shade

Once both sides are taped, it’s time to tightly roll up your shade. Flip your shade with the back side up and roll your shade tightly keeping the lines of your tape straight as your roll. This is how you get a nice straight cut line. There are very few tutorials out there on how to do this, but what I did find often resulted in jagged edges after the cut. In fact, this is why box stores will not cut them. If you have marked well, taped well, and your tape lines up when as roll your edges will be straight. Here are a few extra things to pay attention to during this step:

This is the edge my shade after it was fully rolled. Notice it is not completely even. This is okay! These shades have manufacturing flaws. If your tape lines match as you rolled then you will be good to go. If for some reason the end of the rolled shade has caved in, then undo it and re-roll.

Once you have completely rolled the shade, lay the taped flap down to line up the shade roll.

Step 8: Secure the Roll with Tape

You thought you were done with the tape right? Not yet. On both sides of the shade, wrap the entire roll in tape. This is to keep the flap and the shade together when you cut the shade. Wrap the tape along the cut line. Do this on both sides of the shade.

Step 9: Secure the Cords

Use tape to keep the cords out of the way when you cut the shade.

Step 10: Make the Cut

Take your shade to the chop saw and cut the shade along the tape line. It is best to cut the shade with the wood and hardware facing up. You will cut through the wood first and then the roll. Make sure your blade is sharp; if you have a dull blade, be sure to change it out before you make the cut.

Here is what your rolled shade will look like cut.

The above left photo is the part if the shade we cut off. This is the side of the cut line that did not have any tape. Do you see how bad the fraying is at the cut line? The right photo is the actual unrolled cut shade. There will be a little bit of chipping or fraying but it’s unnoticable once the shade is hung. All that taping is worth it! If you have some chalk lines left, just wipe them clean with a damp cloth.

Step 11: Create New Mounting Holes

Since you cut off your mounting holes you’ll need to make new ones. I’ve found the best way to do this is to follow the instructions for installing the mounting hardware first. Once you do this then have someone hold up the shade and mark where you need to drill your hole.

Step 12: Drill New Mounting Holes

Use the 3/8-inch spade bit to drill your hole where you’ve marked it. I chose a 3/8-inch bit so I could use the washer and wing nut that came with the shade hardware. You could actually use a router to cut a slot like the one previously on the shade. This would give you a little wiggle room just in case you didn’t measure correctly. I don’t have a router so my measurements had to be exact. Check it twice just in case. Once you’re done, install your shade per the instructions.

You can see a little but of cut fray upclose, but this is inevitable. If you want, you could grab a stain pen matched to the shade and gently touch up the rough edges. I have not done this but if you do, I would suggest testing it on the piece of shade you cut off first. Since my shade was top mounted I knew my curtains would cover this up. Honestly, you don’t notice it unless you are intently looking.

This is an upclose and personal view of the shade after it was cut and hung. The funny thing is I have an uncut shade on another window and these edges are more straight.

I love how it turned out and the fact that it looks custom. I know you can hang two shades to make one big shade but I just love the ease of having one.

I wish I could’ve hung it a little higher, but my windows are large and it would have come up too short at the base. My hubby reminded me that we would have to lower the curtain rod to install the crown molding, so one day it will be perfect.

Note: I ordered the oak color from JCP home. It looks more walnut colored in person. The pecan was too dark and too cherry colored in this brand of roman shade.

It’s a little tedious, but cutting a bamboo roman shade is totally doable. I love the custom window treatment at the standard sized store-bought price!

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